New Blog!

If you've enjoyed reading about my experiences in Tanzania here, check out the new blog I've started on Wordpress as of November, 2017. It's called "Back to Tanzania" and you can read it here. All new adventures in Tanzania from an older, wiser, more experienced expat.

Monday, July 11, 2011

South to Tucson and North to Driggs

South to Tucson, Arizona:  the old West, saguaro cactus, posh spas, fabulous Mexican food, and home of one of my most fun friends (and divorce mentor, but that's another story for another time), Tami. After a great visit to Phoenix, I drove the 90 miles south through the desert to Tucson.

Tami has an apartment that's close to her office, which she likes, and downtown, where lots of things are going on, which she also likes. But she doesn't need that settled feeling of being at home, just a place to sleep and store her things. So, eight months in this apartment, and she hasn't unpacked most of her boxes yet.

She suggested we abandon the apartment and check in for the Staycation Special at  Westward Look Resort,  nestled at the base of the Santa Catalina Mountains on the edge of town.

Westward Look started as a 1900-era homestead and some of the original adobe buildings have been preserved in the resort center.

Here's the original sitting room...

...and a couple of shots of the original adobe buildings.

Here's the entry to our suite. 

We settled in and considered our entertainment options.

I was craving Mexican food as soon as I crossed the Arizona border. I'd had at least three Mexican meals in Phoenix, but I still wanted more. It's a staple of our diet in the Western U.S. But in Arusha, Tanzania, where I've been living, it's not really available. Arusha offers incredible Indian food, nice lattes and cappucinos, and a decent pizza. A couple of restaurants list Mexican dishes on their menus. The dishes are pretty tasty, but they in no way resemble actual Mexican food. 

Tami tried to reserve a table for dinner at the next new best Mexican restaurant in town, but it was Saturday, so the earliest reservation was 8:30 and I'm not fashionable enough to wait that late for dinner most evenings. She did all of our planning and reserving and cancelling reservations on her new smart phone. Smart phones have appeared everywhere since I left eight months ago. Of course, people were using them when I last was here, but they're expanding and taking over the universe!( Full sleeve tattoos, too--but that's another story for another time). I drove and Tami worked her smart phone and directed me up and down various streets. After one really good lane change, she said, "I can tell you've been driving in another country." That's probably not good! We ended up at Casa Molina, a long-time Tucson favorite. The food was satisfying straight-up Mexican,  nothing nouveau or southwest. Wonderful! Tami pulled out the smart phone again and posted on Facebook that we were there eating Mexican food.

Sunday morning, we reported for the Staycation-included breakfast buffet at Westward Look, but they told us we'd have to wait 20 minutes. Empty tables abounded and it was a buffet line, for crying out loud, but the surly hostess insisted they did not have enough waiters and we would have to wait. Disgruntled and hungry, we headed into town and ended up at the Organic Bakery, which was a great option. Although I was now noticing that restaurant meals cost a lot more back in the U.S. than I was paying in Tanzania. But it was such a treat to go out for Sunday breakfast with a friend because Tanzanians don't eat much breakfast. I have found two (expensive) Arusha restaurants that serve good breakfasts, but I always have to go alone.

Breakfast at the Organic Bakery with company! Yay! Tami struck a dramatic pose, because I'd been showing her Facebook photos of my Tanzanian friends and explaining that they favor dramatic photo poses.

Next stop--shopping at REI, my favorite outdoor gear store. The one in Tucson is really good. Except for this odd clerk that kept following customers around and engaging in way too much friendly conversation. I bought a buff, a stretchy, mosture-wicking,  fabric tube that you can put around your neck, around your forehead under your hat, use as a potholder or washcloth or towel, or...

...wear as a do-rag. This is a more typical exuberant Tami pose.

Back at the resort, we made a weak attempt to go swimming. But the pool was full of splashing kids. We ended up wandering the grounds and enjoying the desert-scape garden.

We saw lots of hummingbirds...

...and bees...

...and cottontails...

...and lizards. The little ones were too fast for me to get their picture, but this six-inch one stopped to glare at me.

The garden included a meditation labyrinth, but we couldn't settle down enough to walk it and be serene.

Monday morning, a friendlier hostess let me into the breakfast buffet. But I had to eat alone again because Tami didn't want breakfast as much as she wanted to sleep in. But I still had engrossing entertainment. I eavesdropped through my French toast and bacon on two men sitting at the next table. One was well-groomed and nicely dressed in casual desert hiker chic. The other had the look of a wannabe gold miner in from a shack in the desert. At first I thought he was trying to sell investments to the nicely dressed man. But it turned out he was the beneficiary of a trust and the beleaguered nicely dressed guy was the managing trustee. Mr. Beneficiary begged for more money. Mr. Trustee explained that he could not increase monthly payout without cutting into principle. Mr. Beneficiary said that if Mr. Trustee would just come and see the horrible apartment in which he's forced to live, he would understand. Mr. Trustee pointed out that he'd already seen the apartment. Mr. Beneficiary went into full manipulation mode and said he'd expected that having a caring relative manage his money would be easier and provide him a better living. Mr. Trustee just let him talk. He'd obviously heard this all many times and, painful as it was, was doing his duty for his crazy brother or cousin or whomever. Man! I felt sorry for Mr. Trustee. I love eavesdropping!

But it was Monday and time to check out. Our Staycation was over. I drove north, heading away from all the beautiful heat and sunshine of Arizona, fingers crossed that the rain had stopped and the temperature had risen back in Utah.

I made it all the way through Phoenix on I-10 and up to Flagstaff without driving like I was in another country. North of Flagstaff, I retraced my route back through the Navajo Reservation. This time, it was a clear sunny day with intermittent road construction.

It's the only place I've ever felt serene waiting for the flagger to let us all go. I rolled down my windows, shut off the engine, and basked in the 20 minutes of hot desert wind blowing through the car. I guess I'm only allergic to the pollen up in Utah.

And then the whole line of cars and trucks was off and up the road. There's so much room out here, that even on a two-lane highway, we all spread out after only a few minutes of driving.

And then I was driving forever through this astonishing landscape of expansive sky and sculpted sandstone soaked in brilliant late afternoon sunlight.

Okay, I really only drove for about two hours. Maybe I just wanted it to last forever. Or maybe it was the eternal nature of the landscape that made forever seem a possibility.

I stopped at this pull-out to take pictures, but I did not let myself go anywhere near those ladies selling jewelry (on the left) since I already have more Navajo jewelry than any one white woman can reasonably wear in a lifetime.

I spent the night in Page, Arizona, a small town that sprang up in 1959 to house all the engineers and construction workers who built the Glen Canyon Dam and created Lake Powell. This is a huge recreation mecca for my fellow Utahns, but I just ate at the Chinese buffet and slept in the Best Western hotel and moved on the next morning without renting a houseboat or going water skiing.

Glen Canyon Dam

A bend of the Colorado River just downstream from the dam.

The view from Page.

The road heading north. I love it out here!

Back in Utah, I took the slow road, US 89, because it's so much prettier than the freeway.

 I've driven past Moqui Cave north of Kanab dozens of times without stopping. It's a cheesy-looking roadside tourist attraction. Every time I passed, I promised myself I would stop next time. This day, I finally did. I'd say it was on my bucket list, but it doesn't seem ambitious enough for that.

 It used to be more cheesy-looking when they had a big fiberglass dinosaur roaring over the doorway. A few years  ago they took down the dinosaur and built this ersatz Anasazi pueblo around the door.

Inside, it's still cheesy, though, so I quite enjoyed it!

During Prohibition, 1920-1933, when it was illegal to sell alcohol in the U.S., the cave hid this bar. They also featured live bands and dancing in a bigger room in the cave. Although the cave is surrounded by small Mormon towns, they still had plenty of customers.

The cave houses a small museum of native artifacts, fossils, rocks and whatever else the owner collected over the years. Some of it would be illegal to collect now, but things were different back in the old days

From the 1930's clear up until the 1990's, many western movies and TV series were filmed around Kanab. Some of the actors were customers at Moqui Cave, and the cave's owner played a few bit parts.

Anasazi, or Ancestral Puebloan pottery.

 Part of the rock collection, polished and sliced and set into glass.

Fossilized dinosaur tracks.

And if you ever find yourself driving around over near Panguitch, Utah, don't stop for lunch there...go a little further to Hatch and eat at the Adobe Cafe. It was fabulous.

I'm sad to say that, although it had stopped raining, it was still quite chilly back in Northern Utah, even if we were fast approaching the summer solstice. I stayed at home for only two days, then headed north to Idaho. At this point, I still planned to return to Tanzania in only a few days, so I was rushing around to visit as many friends as possible as fast as possible. First, up to Driggs, in the cold shadow of the Teton Mountain Range, to visit another friend from the Forest Service, Megan, and her husband Jack.

Megan took me to a scrapbooking party, where I told the hostess/saleswoman that I wanted to make a digital scrapbook of my blog. This particular scrapbook company didn't have anything like that. So I just enjoyed wandering around seeing what everybody else was doing with their low-tech paper scrapbooks.

Here's the view of the Tetons from the front porch of Megan and Jack's beautiful log house out in the country.

See how cold it looked?

In a good year, Megan gets only 60 frost-free days in which to frantically grow vegetables. This year, spring was really late and really cold and really wet. The bare dirt in the mid-ground is her garden at summer solstice. Even the kale died in a late frost. But help is on the way! Jack bought her a greenhouse for her birthday, and as soon as it's warm enough to work outside, they'll put it up on those wooden railroad ties in the foreground.

 The wet, cold, late spring left rivers and creeks running very high, including the one that crosses their access road. A big log had lodged against their bridge. Jack dropped a cable under it, then pulled it up with a grappling hook to make a secure loop.

 Megan directed Jack to creek's edge with one of his several tractors. It's nice to see trust in a marriage!

They hooked the cable over the teeth of the tractor shovel.

Jack raised the shovel and backed the tractor away, dragging the log out of the creek.

Here's the lone sign of summer I saw in Driggs, Idaho--a robin nesting under the eaves of the log house.

I headed to my hometown, Idaho Falls, next, to see my brother and to consult my tax accountant. 

  Idaho Falls is always cold, although not quite as cold as Driggs.

 And Idaho Falls is always windy. My contact lenses were full of dust all the way through high school in this town. I was happy to see that they've found some use for all that wind.

While my brother and I were driving around to see the wind mills, we came across this golden eagle. 

I'm happy to report that the weather is warmer now in both Idaho and Utah. My cousin tells me it's topped 115 degrees F (46 C!) a few times down in Arizona. Yikes! 

A final note: For those of you who are regular readers, I apologize for the long delay between posts and for shutting down the whole blog for a few days, and for accidentally re-publishing a bunch a old posts. I was converting to the new Blogger template and format, and it took me a bit of trial and error (mostly error) to figure everything out. I believe I have figured it out now and Tanzania 5.0 is back in commission.


  1. I'm enjoying your posts from the States as much as those from Tanzania. I might have found you because of the latter but I'm just up for enjoyable reading and, anywhere that's not my home is fine by me - lol!

  2. I agree - enjoying your stateside posts tremendously, at least partly because I lived in Tempe for 5 years and dearly loved it. The other part is because I am now living in Seoul, South Korea, where summer=rain and it was comforting to see that the sun does, indeed, still shine somewhere. Regarding your Tucson post (which I'm too lazy to go all the way back to and comment on but also thoroughly enjoyed)did you ever read the Frank Lloyd Wright books? I read 'Loving Frank' - which was an absolute downer but very informative - and I could completely imagine him cutting a hole in the window for the pot after some of the stuff I learned from that book...oh, and I'm with you: didn't care for Taliesin 2 either....

  3. Wow! It took me two sittings to get through this post but it was well worth it and the photos are great. I love Flagstaff and the area around Page. Also, I like the new look of the Blog and am glad I have access again. I await more.

  4. Thanks, all! I kind of worry about losing all my readers when I come home to the US, so am glad to hear that you all are enjoying reading about Arizona.
    @ Ms. Caroline: I just finished "Loving Frank." I liked it very much, but reading about the crazy man killing Mamah and the others and burning Taliesin was wrenching. Don't know if I will read the other book I saw about that incident! I've gotta say Frank Lloyd Wright does not seem likeable. I thought Mamah should have had better sense. And I went over to check out your South Korea blog and laughed out loud!

  5. Bahaha! Thanks for featuring me in your new Blogger post. Do I need to convert mine now or am I good?! I like how u delicately described my nomadic style of living and I laughed out loud regarding my bluntness about your interesting driving. No offense taken, I'm sure. Divorce mentor, I like that title although I don't wish divorce on anyone. I love the Buff photo! Your camera and true talent are so amazing! Your nature shots capture every moment perfectly. Thanks for the awesome adventure, my friend. And you should know, I haven't gotten a tat sleeve however, I am responding from my Droid Incredible! ;)